Braving Albania’s deadly roads in a vain hunt for a good meal

Last year’s protests in Gezi Park have spurred Recep Tayyip Erdogan into absurd action: now he’s locking up would-be protesters before they have the chance to assemble

It’s been a dizzying time, this Balkan tour. Sorry for lack of reports on the road, but I spent every spare moment catching up on sleep, which was in short supply. And I didn’t even have to play an instrument. I don’t know how they do it.

‘When Western journalists note in a casual aside that press freedom has experienced certain setbacks under the AKP, they are failing to do justice to the severity of this calamity and its ramifications for Turkey and the region’